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When curating a list of London’s best restaurants, one might expect renowned Michelin-starred names. Yet, nestled near the top among these food titans is a unpretentious salonu found in a outlying part of northern London.

A Unexpected Honour

This small Turkish restaurant, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the city by a respected food magazine. The honour has left the proprietors utterly astonished.

“I’m completely surprised,” remarks a family member, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their small place earning such a prominent ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

This little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing spot, has maintained much of its former feel. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking display, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” comments the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this establishment definitely excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a succulent quality.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in slowly. Once the meaty mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is folded securely inside.

It is often enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in less syrup than usual, giving it a richer, more aromatic and not overly sweet taste.

Surpassing the Giants

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place stuffed for under £25, similar tasting menus at high-end establishments can start at many times that price.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the traps of excess, and to reveal what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I feel very pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was really tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a personal life but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to echo beyond its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the greater importance of this culinary honour.